November 29, 2022

Highlights from Saturday during Paris Fashion Week
A giant, glowing crystal rock on a sand-colored carpet conjured up a glamorous alien planet for Hermes’ champagne-drinking VIP guests.
Earthy hues like browns, reds and yellows — colors long associated with the heritage brand — were used on Saturday’s show to create Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski’s utilitarian, tranquil yet opulent universe for spring.
Elsewhere, Ukraine’s top fashion designers used Paris Fashion Week’s platform to promote their war-ravaged industry.
Here are some highlights of the Spring-Summer 2023 collections in Paris on Saturday:
It was the lone crystal, pulsating glowing color, that brought home the main idea of ​​the Hermes collection: simplicity is powerful.
Utilitarian features – like switches and strange box platforms – were used subtly but with aplomb. The light brown suede tunic mini dresses had pleated leather hems – showcased without jewelry on a model without makeup. Vanhee-Cybulski sometimes seemed to take a fashion-forward take on the 80s.
Exposed midriffs with cords and bottlenose dolphins emerged on otherwise inconspicuous slender silhouettes.
It gave a sporty and spacious feeling to the stripped-down collection.
Last season in Paris, the Ukrainian designer fair took place just two days before the Russian invasion, amid stories of artists fleeing the country so quickly that they had only their children and their collection in hand.
This season has seen no improvement for the industry in its homeland: it is plagued by heightened financial tensions as designers struggle hard to retain staff despite little money, a slump in demand and delectable supply chains.
A collective of these designer survivors can be seen in Paris from Saturday to October 6.
Jen Sidary, the collective’s head, said: “In the 30 years I’ve worked in the fashion industry, I’ve never seen the resilience of a country and its people as they started to focus on keeping things alive. their businesses, days in the war, from bomb shelters to designing new collections amid constant air raid sirens.”
The six who are part of the Paris Fashion Week event — Frolov, Kachorovska, Chereshnivska, Litkovska, My Sleeping Gypsy and Oliz — will showcase unisex clothing, shoes and scarves. It is an attempt to keep their shattered industry alive, and a form of resistance against the Russian bombs that are decimating their homeland.
According to Sidary, many of their colleagues back home in Ukraine had to repurpose their operations to aid the war effort by settling in the country.
The bravery of the Ukrainian fashion industry has attracted international attention.
USAID project manager Natalia Petrova spoke of the “remarkable resilience, commitment and awareness” of Ukrainian companies since the Russian invasion of Ukraine.
“Disruptions in the domestic market, caused by a decline in population demand and broken supply chains, are forcing companies to explore export opportunities to diversify their sales,” she added.
Kink paired with art in Kronthaler’s quintessentially quirky fare — a basic show where a fashion surprise is all but expected.
With his usual encyclopedic flair, Kronthaler wove an aesthetic of yesteryear—medieval and Renaissance nobles and peasants—into his draped silhouettes. Guests almost felt like they were in the theater.
Juliette sleeves mixed with black renaissance tarbuds, embellished collars and even a crazy but classy blue loose tuxedo look that could have been worn by the bard himself. Of course, Kronthaler has accentuated it anachronistically with light blue striped rugby socks. Adding to the creative cauldron were chunky Glam Rock boots and a Highlands kilt style with white trim in the lower regions of the male model, making it look like they’d gotten a bite.
The opening image of Irina Shayk, often voted one of the most beautiful models in the world, in a shiny black bustier and silver ring earrings that riff from S&M, is sure to be a photo few quickly forget.


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